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3D Printing

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Variable Layer Height and Magnetic Clips

Note: I'm printing on a Bambu A1 and use the Bambu slicer I saw in the printing doc that the recommended layer height is 0.12mm, which is great for fine details. One place I've found that doesn't need the fine details is the open lock system at the bottom of the tiles and walls, and I've been using the Variable Layer Height setting on the Bambu slicer to change the bottom of the models that integrate with the open lock to be 0.16mm. This shaves off a bit of time since the advantage of the 0.12 layer height (high detail) isn't really needed down there. I'm not entirely sure on the time difference between 0.12 and 0.16, but I've been printing at 0.08 layer height and there's a significant time savings. It might be worth taking a look at! I also print the clips at 0.16mm.


Speaking of the clips, I…

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Goose, how do the magnet clips fair when setting up raised floors, as opposed to directly on the gaming table?

Steven Dennison
Steven Dennison

Ironing issues on newer 3D printers in Cura

So I have been printing floor hexes on my Anycubic iMega SE using default cura settings and ironing and getting great results.

However, I recently got an Ender 3 V3 KE and with the default Cura and ironing settings, I've been getting terrible top surface quality.


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Anycubic - good results

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The top hex is the V3 KE, bottom is my Anycubic iMega SE


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Steven Dennison
Steven Dennison
23 abr 2024

Quick follow-up, shortly after I posted this, I used the Orca slicer on default settings and got nearly flawless results!

Anyone have any luck splitting the hexes?

I'm having a hard time getting the cave hexes to print out in their full detail; the top layer is often missing, and I think this is because there is a very tiny amount of stagging that happens when they are printing; I usually have some loose strains on the bottom of the print that could not clear the chasm of the hex when creating the initial layers in between the legs of the hex. I have tried messing with speed, temperature, etc.


Regardless of the root cause, I'd like to try separating the 'tops' of the hexes (i,e. the actual floor where the minis would stand) and the 'bottoms' (the places for the magnets and the OpenLOCKs) will seriously cut down on printing time, as well as ensure superiour detail on the top of the print.


The trouble if I've never had to edit an STL file with that…


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Pots
06 mar 2024

Microsoft 3D Builder is good for basic things like splitting a floor hex. I have done this many times with no issues when making a test print.

Printing the goo traps

Any tips how to achieve that goo slimy effect with resin?

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Pots
20 jun 2023

I have found that using a syringe to put the resin into the traps is a lot easier than trying to pour it. It can be very messy when it goes where you don't want it. Very Sticky stuff

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