Hiya Pots, You’re welcome, glad you like the sewer set. And yes, we wanted to give maximum bang for your buck by providing an entire terrain set with the large array of options and inclusions as we provide in out four other core sets. Both Jeff and I are yet to unbox Frosthaven, but from everything we understand, there is no sewer terrain in Frosthaven. That is not the reason we opted for a sewer stretch goal. As we have announced previously, a Frosthaven pack to plug the compatibility gaps between our current offerings and the Frosthaven terrain requirements is something we will look at once we have finished all stretch goals from our most recent Kickstarter. This sewer lineup is something we’ve wanted to deliver ever since we took on Abandoned Sewers in OG Gloomhaven. Granted, the sewer theme is only briefly encountered in the Gloomhaven core campaign, but aside from wanting to faithfully replicate an actual sewer for that story arc, we feel like the sewer theme is a classic fantasy terrain mainstay. We hope that, like us, many of you may choose to setup non-sewer themed scenarios in a sewer theme just because it looks great and is fun to do! Happy printing/painting/gaming, Jay

Hi Todd! Eventually I'll get to creating a how-to video on things like the cave doors, but until then I'll do my best to explain my method here. The inspiration comes from this video from Black Magic Craft: https://youtu.be/8VVfFIAfmzg I take used dryer sheets, stretch them out to the desired "web" consistency, and then use a hot glue gun to instantly attach them to the edges of the cave door frame, stretching and gluing around the edge as I go. Once the web is glued to the entire frame, I trim the edges (if needed) and apply a 50/50 coating of glossy Mod Podge mixed with water with an old paint brush, and then let the doors dry. The finished door looks just like you see there, and the web hardens to a more durable and slightly glossy state due to the Mod Podge. Hope that helps! -Jeff "Lambo"

Hi Todd, The dock and bridge tiles were created to allow you some artistic flair when assembling scenarios. They are not designed to specifically replicate any elements from the core Gloomhaven scenarios. The way we envisage them being used is, by way of of example, this layout we sent to Rahdo https://youtu.be/QPGY1TAF8rg Based on scenario 31 Plane of Night, we incorporated a small bridge and some risers to add some thematic impact to the second ‘room’. Jay

To save any further ‘missing file’ emails, we just want to point out that this wall is not a TST design. There may be other aspects in the images that are not from our sets also - please check with the original poster to clarify any specific file origins and if you still believe you are missing something from our sets, we’re happy to assist you.

You’ve been busy! Looks great mate. Nicely done.

You’re welcome

The above is for the hexes. For the walls, obviously do the hex parts along the base as above, but for the actual wall components; 1. Prime black 2. Same technique of dusting random small edges with white, obviously trying to hit the higher points in more of a true zenithal prime ie spray the white sparingly from directly above 3. Heavy drybrush of a mid grey (I used Josonja Nimbus Grey) 4. Light drybrush of random sections with Rakarth Flesh 5. Very light drybrush of even smaller random sections with Screaming Skull 6. Airbrush (or stipple if no airbrush) randomly along lower base of walls with Moot Green to give look of sludge accumulating at varying depths along wall 7. Apply Nuln Oil Gloss over the lower parts of wall where you’ve applied the green 8. Apply regular Nuln Oil (ie not the gloss variant) to all parts of the wall above the green. Make sure you do steps 7 and 8 in close succession so that each wash mixes in with the other for a more natural blend. 9. Same optional step re application of tinted resin

Hi there, I’ll do my best, to be honest I tried quite a few techniques and schemes before settling on the one you see in the promo material. I thought I wrote it down in a note on my phone but can’t seem to find it at the moment. The following is my best recollection of a step by step on how I did my sewer hexes. (Note: I remember thinking it looked pretty ordinary until the Nuln Oil gloss went down, that tied everything together). 1. Prime the hexes black. 2. I wore gloves and, holding some of the hexes at a slight angle, gave them a very slight dust on random edges with Vallejo white spray primer (giving a very loose zenithal type prime I guess you could say. Idea here being to generate some small areas of extra pop later on) 3. Drybrush all over of GW Rakarth Flesh 4. Very light selective drybrush of GW Screaming Skull 5. Use a fine brush and any brand of matte thinned black paint to blackline the cracks on the hexes (maximum contrast for later) 6. I used an airbrush to spray heavily thinned GW Moot Green lightly onto random sections of each hex, not totally covering the applied areas, more just tinting it. If you don’t have an airbrush, you could probably just stipple it on randomly 7. Apply Nuln Oil Gloss to all hexes 8. Optional step is to mix up some two-part resin and tint it with a tiny dot of Moot Green/GW Skrag Brown until you get a mix you’re happy with and stipple small droplets onto random hexes. I hope to eventually get the time to do a video tutorial, but hopefully for now that points you in the right direction. Cheers, Jay

No, as per the print guide, you DO NOT need to use supports to print the floor hexes. Your printer will bridge the gap fine without supports. If it doesn’t, make sure your speed setting is set to at least 40 to 50. If you end up with a few loose or errant strands of PLA underneath the hex, that’s normal, just snip/pull them off.

The tops and sides of the wall pieces on the Indoor Terrain were designed as "cutouts" of complete buildings. Therefore they did not have any wood texture added to those areas by design, since they represent portions of sliced wood beams, just as the wall sections don't have stucco texture on the tops or sides of them either. If you're looking to add your own textures for your personal pieces, you might try looking around Thingiverse and seeing what is available based on your skill and knowhow of altering 3D files, but unfortunately we don't have any wood texture addons that can create additional texture to the completed models like you've asked about.

Hi, you can find that information on page 13 of our Print Guide

Hi Kris, No, those tiles are from an unlocked stretch goal that has not been finalised. Early prototype versions were used in the promo build you have posted above, but these files still require some work before they are made available to our customers. Regards, Jay

Hi Paul, Not a pain at all, it’s very important to us that you get prompt access to your files! I did reply immediately a few hours ago to your last email, but it seems the TPG domain isn’t co-operating. I have re-sent my last reply to your nominated Gmail address. If you don’t see that one, let me know in here and I can investigate further. Sorry for the muck around, Jay

Hi Jason, The table bridged fine in upright orientation during our test prints. Regards, Jay

Hiya, I actually only ended up printing about a third of the pieces in resin, I’ve swapped to PLA just because its a lot easier and cheaper. The majority of my resin prints were fine, there was a handful where the underside openlock structure split in places but that was more due to the removal from the plate.

Very cool! Love the saturation of the colours.

Very nice! I like the wood colouring.

Hi, Whilst the spiked trap pieces are indeed one of our more delicate designs and require careful handling (there’s no way around very thin spikes of plastic not being fragile), they should not ‘break at the slightest touch’. You could try printing them at .2 as the larger layer height may introduce a little more integrity to the spikes. Also, you could try increasing your infill % (at least 20% is what I’d recommend). Finally, slight underextrusion could cause the kind of issues you’re describing so make sure you don’t have a slight clog. Jeff and I print those traps regularly and don’t have the issue you’re describing so if the above doesn’t work, it’s likely going to be a rogue printer setting/idiosyncrasy at your end which can be tricky to diagnose. Good luck with it, Jay

Hi there, Delivery of the Indoor files and any completed stretch goals will occur over email once the Kickstarter funds are processed. This is usually a number of business days after the conclusion of the Kickstarter. Future stretch goals will be fulfilled over email as they are released moving forward. Regards, Jay

Hi Jonathon, Printing Talisman Sabre Terrain in resin is definitely an option, it's not discussed in the print guide simply because both Jeff and I have done very little experimentation at printing our designs in resin (in fact, up until quite recently, apart from some traps and overlays, we had never tried printing our tiles in resin). I know there have been a number of customers who have been printing our stuff in resin for a while now, and hopefully they'll see this thread and weigh in, but all of the feedback I have heard anecdotally has been very positive. The obvious benefit of printing in resin is the excellent capture of detail in the printed pieces, and it is this reason why Jeff and I one day (when we can find the time amongst the never-ending physical orders we fulfil and Kickstarters etc) want to print ourselves an entire set in resin to keep for our own personal use. The possible drawbacks I'm aware of are; - Print plate size. Most resin printers are smaller than FDM, and therefore fitting our larger models such as the 4 and 5 hex straight walls and the 3 hex point walls can be a challenge. Having said that, more and more large-plate resin printers are coming onto the market so this drawback is becoming less of an issue over time - Cost. Printing in resin, even when the models are hollowed, costs significantly more than printing in PLA - OpenLOCK system. Whilst we haven't done any testing in this area, we'd expect that the lack of flexibility and 'give' in a resin hex, as compared to a hex printed in PLA, would make the OpenLOCK clip system less usable? If that did prove to be the case, one could always opt for magnets to overcome this issue. I (Jay) have recently been printing out an encounter layout for the boss battles in Oathsworn: Into The Deepwood (fantastic game by the way!). I have been printing our Talisman Sabre Terrain outdoor files in resin on my Creality LD-002R and I have been very impressed with the results so far. Due to the smaller size of my plate, I have so far only been printing outdoor floor hexes, columns, and two-hex walls. I'm no resin expert, especially with supports and file orientation in Chitubox, so the hexes I have been just placing flat onto the plate and that has worked fine so long as I am careful with removal and the walls I have just been using auto supports and that has also worked fine. I didn't even hollow the models, and whilst it uses more resin, I actually love the weighty feel of the printed pieces, to me it just gives them a real premium feel! Here's a pic of a small part of the Oathsworn build, I'm really enjoying the terrain being noticeably crisper in detail than FDM (the trees are FDM prints so ignore those). Anyway, in short, I think there is definitely scope for printing our files in resin with stunning results, just so long as you go into it with your eyes open in terms of what you can fit onto your print plate, the higher cost per print, and the possibility that you might have to opt for magnets over clips (or just lay the terrain out unfastened as I do!). I hope this information helps! Jay Talisman Sabre Terrain